Aux Enfants Gates, 75014 Paris

I had heard rumors of a very good restaurant that had recently opened just around the corner from me in Paris, so off I went to try it out.  And what a good idea that was!  Excellent cuisine, by Frederic Bidant, who previously was a chef at Lasserre, and efficient and friendly service by his wife, Caroline, who apparently was responsible for persuading  him to go it on his own.

The dishes offered are of very superior quality, and the menu changes regularly according to market availability.  Every week, in addition to the normal menu, there are two special dishes, which on the day of my visit were Ris de Veau with girolle mushrooms or Cote de Boeuf for 2 – both very tempting.

However, true to form, I went for the 3 course menu as I liked almost everything on it.  After a mise en bouche of  cream of crayfish  soup, I started with a poached egg in a reduction of veal extract served with mushrooms. The other starters were seared red tuna,  or smoked mackerel with polenta and onions.  The main courses were fillet of cod with a celery and potato puree, steak with pommes dauphines and herb butter or stuffed cabbage.  I chose  the last item because you don’t often find it on menus and I love it!  The desserts were also excellent: caramel parfait with vanilla ice cream and a croquant biscuit, chocolate mousse or cheesecake with mango compote.  I am often disappointed by the desserts but not this time – and I tasted all three of them.

We chose wine by the glass – a Rully Blanc, a Haute Cote de Beaune and a Petit Chablis, and the prices were Euros 4.50 and Euros 5,50  respectively.

The 3 course menu was Euros 34 and 2 courses Euros 25 – excellent value .