A November Sunday in Paris

Here is a recipe for spending a perfect sunny November Sunday in Paris !

Start off by heading to Pierre Hermé on rue Bonaparte to pick up one or two of the most wonderful croissants in Paris. Allthough Dalloyau  near the Jardin de Luxembourg,  comes a close second.  This is a very expensive patisserie, selling out of this world cakes (imagine a chocolate Saint Honoré! ), but their croissants and pains au chocolat are reasonably priced and d–e-l-i-c-i-o-u-s, with fluffy light pastry yet so buttery. Then go and sit on the Place St. Sulpice to eat them while contemplating the church which after years of renovation has finally had the scaffolding removed. It’s well worth a look inside too. At the moment there is also an exhibition of modern bronze sculptures on the square which are very striking, but I couldn’t help wondering how they manage to bring them into safety  every night !

Then if you don’t mind walking, head back through streets lined with lots of tempting shops towards the intersection of Boulevard Raspail and Boulevard Montparnasse and the Bar aux Huitres. This for me is the epitome of Paris in winter with its show of sea food platters outside – lobsters, crabs, clams, oysters etc in tiered dishes waiting to be served up inside. And they go like « petits pains » However we are there for the oysters which we eat at the mirror- framed bar perched on high stools with inviting  displays of wine bottles arranged temptingly in front of you.

There is a wide choice of oysters from all over France – my favourite ones are the flat marennes and the fines de claires. The bar area offers impeccable service with two very efficient barmen catering to your every need. You can eat other seafood dishes at the bar too (the fish soup is particularly good) and I much prefer it to the traditional restaurant area, though the service everywhere in the restaurant is very professional .

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The oysters are of course served on a bed of ice, but in addition there is a device in the middle which as they are put in front of you, emits a cold white smoke to chill them even more – giving the scene a sort of magic touch . There are the usual lemons and shallot vinaigrette as accompaniments, but also a little jar of pork liver pate and a large plate of assorted breads . Crisp white napkins, tall degustation wine glasses and the scene is set !

Prices are reasonable at Euros 13 for 6 oysters and Euros 6 for a glass of Muscadet – and you leave feeling all is well with the world and ready for a short stroll up the Boulevard Raspail to the Fondation Cartier.

This is a very futuristic glass building, which houses avant-garde exhibitions and at the moment it has one called Les Habitants, with contributions from, amongst other famous artists, Francis Bacon and  David Lynch, who has contributed a very strange set.  This consists of a darkened room where you sit on leather pouffes next to an armchair and a sofa beautifully upholsered in antelope skin , while a feminine voice recounts a long and complicated story about two lovers and an antelope, and pictures of wild animals flash on a screen on the wall. Another part of the exhibition consists of a completely empty room, which has obviously been divested of its « habitants « !  A somewhat strange, but not unpleasant experience.

And then home before it gets dark to watch the coloured lights flashing on the Tour Montparnasse .Or if you’re feeling really daring, going to the recently opened Burger King on Avenue General Leclerc, where after nearly 15 years absence from the Paris scene, the customers have been queuing up 40 deep to try the culinary delights  on offer! What has happened to the cradle of gastronomy??