Oyster Shacks, 11370 Le Grau de Leucate

There is a very unusual gastronomic experience to be had on the coast road running from  Port Leucate to  Leucate Plage, between the lagoon and the Mediterranean,  courtesy of the local oyster and mussel fishermen.

Each side of the waterway leading to the sea is a small collection of oyster shacks where you can revel in all sorts of local oysters, mussels and shellfish,  literally unloaded straight  from the oyster boats which are moored behind the sheds.   Everything is  served raw though, as  local regulations  do not permit any cooking.  Oyster baskets and nets are everywhere and though the area was recently updated with a tarmac road and parking lot, the atmosphere of the place has not changed at all,  though personally I regret the more casual atmosphere of days gone by with gravel  tracks and more haphazard parking.

You  choose  your menu directly from the tanks behind the dining tables and as well as straight oysters or mussels you can also compose your own shellfish platter,  to include clams and prairie oysters.     Fishermen, often resplendent  in gum boots and fishing jerseys,  open them on the spot  and white wine from Leucate and brown bread and butter complete the meal.   The price for 12 oysters ranges from Euros  9 for the small ones to  Euros 14 for the large ones,  with various other categories such as “speciales” and “moyennes”  in-between.    There are tables outside in the sunshine and no matter how many times you go back  it is always  a memorable experience.  There are over 20 different establishments to choose from  and everyone has their own particular favourite – mine is L’ Aquarium  or Les Oranges,  which are  about half way down on the right bank,  and there is even one  called Martine’s with an Asiatic connection and dragon decorations on the walls !  There are no reservations, so if your preferred  shack is full, you just move on to the next one.

The oysters and mussels are also for sale by the kilo to take away  so all you need is an oyster knife and you’re all set for your own  shellfish feast at home. Sometimes there is  fresh fish for sale but at Port Barcares, just up the road,  there is a fish market every morning  till about 11 a.m.  where the day’s catch, some of which is literally still jumping,  is on sale direct from the fishing boats.

If you’re into windsurfing the lagoon at Leucate is where the World Windsurfing Championships are held every year,  and whenever the wind is up ( quite often!) there are always numerous addicts out practicing.

Another point of interest – the real estate development opposite the oyster shacks is a nudist colony – but unless you have your Nudist Federation membership card I’m afraid you won’t be allowed in as access is strictly regulated.   The beach is also reserved for nudists but from my one and only  personal experience of such an establishment ,  I can assure you that most people look a lot better with their clothes on!!