January in France is time for the Gateau des Rois, a puff pastry tart filled with almond paste, which celebrates Epiphany and the Coming of the Three Kings. Each tart contains a little porcelain “feve” and the person who finds it in his piece of cake becomes King or Queen for the day, and gets to wear a gold paper crown!
A favourite pastime of Parisians is to find the patisserie with the best gateau des rois, and this January we must have tried at least five – the winner being without a doubt the offering from Dalloyau, a long established cake shop near the Luxembourg Gardens. Their gateau had not only air-light pastry with almond paste inside but a good sprinkling of rum too.
But while we were on our gateau hunt I discovered Philippe Conticini’s Patisserie des Reves, where the cakes purposely take you back to your childhood cake tastes but are infinitely more sophisticated in their presentation.I couldn’t resist taking some photos of these wonderful creations which sit as if encased in glass bubbles as you come into the shop, and are truly works of art.
And even better news is that Mr Conticini has just opened a shop on Marylebone High Street just round the corner from where I live in London . And apparently he’s going to be looking at well established English cakes on which to work his magic too.
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