Restaurant les Epicuriens. Domaine de Barive, 02350 Sainte Preuve

I had always wanted to visit the First World War battlefields and cemeteries and this Chateaux and Hotels property was the perfect place from which to do it. Set in rolling countryside, not far from Rheims, it is a beautiful old stone building which has been renovated and houses about 20 rooms, a Spa and indoor pool, and the Restaurant les Epicuriens.

We spent quite a bit of time in the pool and spa, but went out every day to visit the battlefield sites and in particular the cemeteries, which was a very sobering experience. In one of them, a German cemetery, eleven thousand graves stretching further than the eye can see is a sight difficult to come to terms with – and the only way to really appreciate the terrible carnage wrought by that war. All the battlefield sites, such as the Chemin des Dames, are very well documented and there are also several Information Centres. And on the way back to Paris we visited the First World War Interactive Museum, which was recently opened by President Sarkozy, and which I strongly recommend.

But now to the restaurant, Les Epicuriens, which is located in the impressive main hall of the house, with beautiful flower arrangements and interesting wall decorations. We ate there every evening and although the food was nicely presented and often inventive we thought that the chef was almost trying too hard, and tended to add too many flavours to each dish. There were several game dishes on the menu, and dishes such as pig’s cheeks and fish wrapped in pastry, which were very tasty but somehow never quite succeeded. However, the starters and the desserts were very good and there was an excellent, if expensive, wine list. Prices were rather high – approximately Euros 55 per meal without wine. The breakfasts, however, were first-class , with home-made breads and jams, charcuterie and cheeses, and fruit salad macerated in eau de vie. Excellent value at Euros 17.

As an overall experience the hotel, spa and restaurant were a very pleasant experience and if you go off-season there are some good deals to be had on the rooms.